I am finally in the construction phase of the “leather” coat for my youngest son and it has been a time of learning and relearning. It has also taken me much longer to get here than I thought it would, but as I work, I am remembering a lot of the cool things I had learned decades ago that are helping me now, so I am speeding up. I have now worked with this faux leather enough to know I really like it. It has just the right weight, a good hand, and responds well to construction steps. It is a vast improvement over faux leathers of the past.
Sew here are a few hints if you want to try your hand at working with such “leather”.
- I found that my Bohin chalk marker I use for quilting works well for marking.
- After you get your flat pattern adjusted and a muslin piece fitted (essential) and ready to use, you have to mark each piece one side at a time on the back of the “leather”. First, cut out the pattern carefully, then weight it down flat on the back of the “leather” and chalk around the pattern. Cut carefully with scissors or rotary cutter (small rotary cutter will cut around the curves better). Accuracy of the cutting will make a difference in the finished product. This process takes about three times or more of pinning a pattern on woven fabric folded in half and then cutting out both sides of each piece together.
- You cannot readily pin the “leather” because the hole stays permanently. Exception: I pinned a few places where I really needed help keeping it together for stitching, but making certain the pin holes will be in the seam or hidden some other way.
- Clips work really well as a substitute for pinning when working along the edges for most of your stitching needs, and blue painter’s tape works great when you need some help where you can’t put a pin or a clip.
- You really need a teflon foot for most stitching (see my last post for the feet I am using), but I also have added my clear plastic foot number 34D Bernina that allows me to see the exact placement of the needle when making a bound welt pocket.
In the case of the plastic foot, I was using my dual feed and stitching very slowly. It worked well for this purpose, but for regular stitching at normal it really is best with a teflon foot.
- Marking carefully is vital when making welt pockets and don’t try to push yourself when you get tired. I actually ruined one of the coat fronts late in my sewing day after the sun had gone down, and had to recut that piece and the binding pieces and start over by doing that. So I suggest you buy an extra length of the longest piece in your pattern to be able to recut if need be. You can use the leftovers for bags, hats, eye glass covers, and other interesting small projects. I will be using that ruined piece as part of a bag I plan to make, so it isn’t really lost. The next day, I got the pockets in really nicely and now I am so confident in making such pockets I will probably start using them on a regular basis again.
- I am using a seam roller gadget to “press” the seams open, but that is just temporary and the seams need to be either top stitched down or glued.
- I found you can iron on fusible interfacing on the wrong side at a lower iron setting than you normally use, no steam, and with a quilting cotton pressing cloth. Be careful, press, don’t iron, and test your own “leather” first. I am using a pellon tailoring interfacing. Do NOT iron on the right side of the “leather” and I suggest you not try to iron the seams and completed turned pieces either.
Sew I will publish at least one more post on this project showing you the end result. I am writing this information up into a how-to book including this and other projects. There is a lot more to tell you about this.
Sew happy everyone. I encourage you to take a look at the current day vegan leathers and try working with it. There are a lot of interesting “leathers” out there and they come in different textures and weights.